Pre-planting: the trees

 Bare-root trees are planted in the dormant season, as soon as possible after delivery provided the planting site is not frozen or excessively wet (if so, the soil won’t pack closely around the roots, creating poor conditions for root growth). If you aren’t ready to plant, ‘heel in’: dig a trench for the roots and back-fill so that the roots are well-covered with soil and there are no large air pockets round them. If necessary the trees can be stored for weeks like this.

 Potted trees can be planted at any time of year provided there is not much root damage at planting. However, this can be appreciable if the tree is root-bound since any roots which encircle the pot should be cut or teased out, or if the root volume fails to cohere.

 Pre-planting: the site

 Nearby vegetation can be cleared to reduce shade and root competition, whether grass and herbs close to the planting spot or woody plants many metres away.

 Drive in tree stakes (if needed) before planting. Dig ample pits on the side of the stakes away from the prevailing wind, and loosen the soil at the base of the pit ie. below the root zone. Stakes are often recommended for trees in their first few years after planting, and throughout their lives for fruit trees on dwarfing rootstocks (eg. apple M27 and M9).

 Add around 10 litres of peat or other organic matter and 30 grams of fertilizer per planting spot, divided equally between the soil at the base of the pit and the soil waiting to be back-filled round the roots. On wet sites avoid organic materials which are poorly aerated when wet, and if fertilizer is not added ensure that any organic materials (like garden compost, farmyard manure) are fully rotted so that they don’t create a demand for nutrients as they decompose further.

 Planting

 Check that the roots of the trees are moist, if necessary re-hydrating them by soaking just before planting. Spread the roots as you back-fill, ensuring that they’re not bent by the sides of the pit, and plant to the correct depth so that the root-shoot junction is at the level of the soil surface after firming. The graft union of grafted trees should be about 10cm clear of the soil level and the main stem should be about 8cm from the stake to allow for stem growth.

 Tie the trees to their stakes in a figure-of-eight arrangement to avoid constriction, and use a smooth binding to avoid abrasion. First loop the binding loosely three or four times, then wind one end over the cross-over of the loops between the tree and the stake, forming a buffer and tensing the tie. 

 Post-planting

 If necessary protect individual trees against rabbits and other small mammals with a mesh or spiral guard. Mammals eat bark in winter, girdling the tree in severe cases. It is difficult to control grass growth within a mesh guard, while the closer-fitting spiral may abrade the tree or predispose it to canker or collar rot. Both kinds of guard protect the tree against lawnmower or strimmer damage and increase the visibility of the tree. Prunings left in the inter-row early in winter can attract small mammals, sparing the trees.

 Inspect ties at least once a year to ensure that they are loosened, tightened or renewed before there is any constriction or abrasion of the main stem.

 While the tree is establishing itself, the area around the base should be kept free of competing weeds and grass. A weekly watering during dry periods may be advisable, but avoid over-watering as this inhibits root extension growth.